# 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 



012 543 503 8 



Hollinger Corp. 
P H8.5 






PREPARATORY PRACTICE MOVEMENTS FOR THE BARBER APPRENTICE 



The Athlete, preparing for special training excen ises the muscles by a scientific sytem of 
movements. So should the barber apprentice, and for this purpose we offer this set of diagrams 
for preparatory work. 

The method and manner of handling instruments in the barber profession can be acquired 
by a tew moments' daily practice as given here. 

The positions to be attained and the movements acquired can be accomplished by home 
study and practice and are intended to save time for one after having joined our school. These 
movements can be practiced and studied in connection with our Manual to best advantage. 

Any razor, strop, hone or comb that you may now have will answer the purpose for 
practice work, but the shear should be one made for regular barber work. These exercises 
should be made a daily' habit until success has been attained. 

PREPARING HANDS 

In preparing the hands for these exercises try the following: 

Soak the hands daily in hot soapie water from five to ten minutes; then apply a good 
skin food (not a vanishing cream), similar to the formula given here. 

Almond Oil 4 ounces 

Spermaceti 1 ounce 

White Wax 1 ounce 

Benzoin 2 drops 

Oil of Rose 1 drop 

Heat almond oil, wax and spermaceti in double boiler until melted, add benzoin and oil 
of rose while cooling, and stir continually until thoroughly whitened. 

After having applied the cream to the hands and wrists, rub each with a wringing movement 
using sufficient pressure to work every muscle and joint without straining or spraining; then 
take each finger separately, giving the joints a wringing movement until the knuckles and 
joints feel quite limber; then take the end of each finger separately with the fingers of the other 
hand and give it a rotary movement. Keep the hand relaxed so that each joint will be moved 
and put in play. 

After an exercise of about five minutes daily, wash hands again and apply the following 
lotion that can be made up at any drug store from this formula: 

Equal parts of Witch Hazel 
Bay Rum 
Glycerine 
Rose Water. 

To each six ounces add one teaspoonful camphor. 5 drops of carbolic acid. 

Rub it in well with a wringing movement and repeat as often as condition requires until 
the hands are soft and elastic. 








FREE HAND 

This movement is used in 
actual work at the chair for 
shaving the right side of the 
face, the left side of the chin, 
and the upward movement of 
both right and left sides of the 
neck. It is the most general 
and one of the easiest move- 
ments used in shaving. 



©CU457405 M *R 12 1917 



Copyrighted by A. B. Moler, 1917 




MOVEMENT NO. 1 

Take razor in right hand, handle between little and third finger. Raise 
both elbows nearly level with the shoulders. Take position as if shaving. 
Hold left hand back of razor as if stretching the skin tight under the razor. 

Move razor in right hand toward you with a diagonal stroke toward 
the point, a sliding movement, then back and forth like sawing. The length 
of strokes should be from 8 inches to a foot. 

Continue to practice it daily until it becomes easy. 

Avoid allowing the razor to swing by bending the wrist. Movement is all from the elbow to the hand. 
Always keep the elbow up so that the razor will be carried from above. 

The tendency is to take the handle of the razor between the second and third fingers and draw the 
blade straight forward which is not a cutting stroke. 

Further instructions on this movement are given on page 56 of our Manual. 



Copyrighted by A. B. Moler, 1917 




BACK HAND 

This movement is used in 
actual work at the chair for 
shaving the right side of the 
chin, the left side of the face, 
the left side of the neck shaving 
down and the left side of the 
upper lip. It is one of the most 
difficult movements and next in 
importance to the Free Hand. 




Copyrighted by A. B. Moler, 1917 




MOVEMENT NO. 2 

Take razor in right hand with handle bent back, the shank of the 
razor resting on the first two joints of the first two fingers and held in place 
by the thumb on the back of the shank of the razor, — the blade from you 
and the handle pointing toward you. 

Raise the elbow nearly as high as the shoulder, the back of the hand 
directly from you, the wrist slightly bent downward. Hold the left hand 
as if stretching the skin tight under the razor. 

Move the razor in the right hand forward from you with a sliding stroke toward the point. Length 
of stroke from 8 inches to one foot. Use a forward and back stroke like sawing. 

Be sure that the elbow is kept up so that the razor is carried and not pushed from you. 

The knack is in keeping the point of the razor ahead and in carrying it diagonally toward the point. 

The tendency is to drop the elbow and move the razor forward with a straight pushing stroke. 

Further instructions on this movement are given on page 57 of our Manual. 



Copyrighted by A. B. Moler, 1917 




REVERSE HAND 

This movement is used in 
actual work at the chair for 
either right or left side of the 
neck shaving up. It is not as 
generally used by the barber as 
the other two movements for it 
is one of the most difficult move- 
ments to acquire. It is a labor 
saver and should be mastered. 



r 




ihted by A. B. fcloler. 1917 




MOVEMENT NO. 3 

Take razor in right hand with the edge toward you just the reverse 
of Movement No. 2. This will bring the handle between the ends of the 
little and third finger. The handle bent slightly back. 

Move the razor toward you with a slightly upward movement drawing 
toward you and toward the heel in a diagonal direction. The length of 
the movement is from 4 to 6 inches. 

Hold the left hand as if pulling the skin tight under the razor. 

The tendency is to bring the razor straight up without the sawing or sliding stroke. 

Avoid letting the razor swing by bending the wrist. The movement is from the elbow to the hand. 
The only wrist movement is a slight turn of the wrist to throw the edge up as it is moved forward. A half 
dipping movement. 



i !op> ! i -• 1 1 1 .- d by A. II. Moli 








I IT 







DOUBLE BACK HAND 



This movement is used in 
actual work at the chair for 
making the outline of the hair 

cut. It is used on the left side, 
back of the ear. The position 
is quite difficult but practice 
will attain it. 



Copyrighted by A. B. Moler, 1917 




MOVEMENT NO. 4 



Take razor in right hand as in Movement No. 2. Drop the elbow 
close to the side, turn the palm of the hand up with the razor in a position 
that will bring the point down. 

Raise the left arm and hand in a position as if drawing the skin tight 
under the razor. 

The movement is a slight forward movement toward the edge of the 
razor. 

Practice is required to attain the position. The movement is not 
difficult. 

The tendency is to hold the blade horizontal instead of nearly perpendicular. 
Further instructions on this movement are given on page 77 of our Manual. 



ghted by A. B. Moler, 1917 



V>T 




6. 




Vi 



i 



V) 



STRAPPING 

This movement is shown with 
no intent of putting a razor in 
condition but simply to offer 
instructions in the proper man- 
ner of rolling the razor in the 
hand while strapping. Do not 
feel that you have acquired it by 
a few minutes' work. Rapid 
movement is necessary but let 
it come to you gradually as you 
practice. 




Copyrighted by A. B. Molcr, 1917 






/ 




/ 






\ :■ 



iii..' i 

\ \\: \ 



\ .-V,-' 
- '•>• 'A 

h\ 

L 



s? 






MOVEMENT NO. 5 

Hold the strap firmly in the left hand so it cannot sag. Hold close to 
the side about as high as the hip. Take razor in right hand, well up into the 
hand with the side of the thumb resting on the shank in a manner that will 
permit of turning the razor in the hand as if rolling a stick or lead pencil. 

Start at farthest end of strap, draw toward back of razor 
from I to I 1-2 feet. Turn the razor on the back of the blade by rolling it 
in the hand which brings the other side of the thumb onto the shank and the 
fingers grasping the handle so that the blade cannot open or close. 

The knack is in turning the blade without turning the hand. 

The tendency is to either keep the handle and shank of the razor at the ends of the fingers and partly 
turn the hand with the razor, or to lift each finger while turning the razor. 

Some patience and diligent practice will be required for this movement. 

Bear just heavy enough on the strap to feel the razor draw. 

Further instructions on this movement are given on pages 50 and 51 of our Manual. 



htc ,i by A. B. Moler, 1!U7 



J 




HONING 

The instruction for honing, 
like the strapping movement, is 
only to help in exercising and 
not in the actual preparation of 
the razor. The movement as 
we illustrate it has been mastered 
by comparatively few barbers 
but it is the secret to successful 
honing— learn it and be successful. 




-J 



^ 






Cop righted by A. B. Moler, 1917 



I ' 




MOVEMENT NO. 6 

The hone can be held in the hand or on a shelf. If on a shelf it should 
be at the very outer edge so that the top of the stand will not interfere with 
the movement of the hand, and the position taken with the left side to the 
shelf. 

Hold the razor in the right hand with the first finger over the shank 
of the razor perfectly straight, and the ball of the thumb at the joint of the 
blade and handle of the razor. The other three fingers around the handle 
in such a manner that the second finger will hold the shank of the razor in 
place to keep it from opening or closing. 

The movement is forward on the hone from the heel to the point diagonally across the stone with the razor perfectly flat 
from heel to point and from edge to the hack. 

This finishes the stroke with the point of the tazor at the nearer edge of the hone. Now turn the razor on to the hack of 
the blade without turning the hand over and slide toward the other edge of the hone in position for the return stroke. 

1 he knack is to turn the razor in the hand without turning the hand. In rolling the razor it will bring the other side of 
the thumb in contact with the shank and the finger will oscillate over the side of the shank as the blade is tinned from side to side. 

The first finger must not be bent or lifted and the other three fingers must be held in such a position that they will roll 
the razor from side to side at the end of each stroke without lifting the fingers. 

The tendency is to keep taking a new hand hold to avoid turning the hand but this should not be done. It is well to prac- 
tice with a coin or some small weight on the back of the hand and go through the movements without allowing it to fall off. 

Further instructions on this movement is given on page 50 of our Manual. 



.It.,! by V. B, Moler, 1917 





SHEARS AND COMB 

This movement is used in 
actual work at the chair for 
cutting the entire lower part 
of the hair, while cutting over 
the comb. It is an exercise 
that requires considerable 
practice as the hand tires 
quickly and should be trained 
to the position. 



' ' "[. * i ighted by A. B. Moler, 1917 




MOVEMENT NO. 7 

Hold shear in the right hand with the third finger in the ferrule and the 
little finger resting on the short lip that is made for it. 

The first and second fingers are to be bent over the handle of the shears 
in such a manner that it will hold it firmly in the hand. The ferrule should 
never be allowed to pass beyond the second joint of the finger. The thumb 
in the other ferrule never allowed to pass the first joint 

The thumb should be so bent and held in position that it will keep the ferrule in place. 

The comb must be held in the left hand with the fingers at the end of the teeth and the thumb at the back of the comb 
so that it can be turned in the hand for combing up through the bait and down again through the hair after the work oi the shears. 

One blade of the shears is to be held rigid by the finger while the thumb operates the cutting blade, the comb to be held 
parallel with the still blade of the shear. 

Take a position with the shear and comb both held to the right with the point of the shear pointing toward you. < (perate 
the cutting blade with the thumb and move the shears and comb together in an upward direction about one foot, keeping the cutting 
blade in motion as if cutting hair. When at the highest point turn the teeth of the comb down in the hand and bring the hands 
down as if combing through the hair. Turn the teeth of the comb up again and repeat. 

The tendency is to hold the shears and comb directly in front of you. 

The knack is in keeping the one blade still while operating the other blade with the thumb and in moving both sheats and 
comb upward at the same time. 

Further instructions on this movement is given on pages 76 and 77 of our Manual. 



Copyrighted by A. B. Moler, 1917 




HANDLING TOWEL 

This movement in actual work at the 
chair is used not only for drying every 
part of the face but for washing it as 
well, and the properly trained barber 
never picks up a towel for this use that 
he does not handle it in this manner. 
There is a nicety in handling linen that 
commands business, and it should be 
practiced until all movements become 
easy and graceful. It can be practiced 
with a handkerchief or any cloth of 
convenient size. 





\1 




;X% ^ 




Copyrighted by A. B. Moler. 1917 

— W' 




MOVEMENT NO. 8 



Hold the right hand directly in front of you perpendicularly. Draw 
the towel between the first and second fingers equal distance from either end. 
With the left hand take the two ends of the towel, draw them back of the 
thumb of the right hand leaving a smooth surface over the fingers for drying 
the face. 

The two ends may be held out of the way with the left hand or may be 
allowed to drop over the wrist and fore-arm of the right hand to prevent 
them from flopping in the customer's face. 

As the towel under the ends of the fingers becomes moist by drying the face, drop the ends, taking the 
position of the first movement and with the left hand draw the towel through the first and second finger of 
the right hand a little nearer one or the other of the ends in order to bring the dry part of the towel again 
under the fingers. 

Draw the ends of the towel back of the thumb as before. 

The knack is to change the position of the towel quickly without unnecessary movement. 

The tendency is to handle the towel bunched in the hand. 

Further instructions on this movement are given on page 64 and 65 of our Manual. 



.glited by A. B. Moler, 1917 




r 



asr** 





ALTERNATE HAND 

This movement in actual work at the 
chair is used in all scalp and hair prepa- 
rations and is one that helps greatly to 
put the hands in the proper condition 
for barbering. There is no movement 
that we have illustrated that gives more 
excercise to the muscles and joints and 
it is well to start the daily excercises with 
a few minutes of this movement to 
limber the hands and wrists. 



